Apr 30 2008
The Front Room
Continuing our gastronomic exploration of Portland, Amber and I had dinner at The Front Room a couple weeks ago after my recent business trip to Kentucky. We’d heard some great things about Harding Lee Smith’s comfort food restaurant on Munjoy Hill and had to give it a try. The Front Room is just over the crest of the hill on Congress Street, a block or so past The Blue Spoon.
The sign out front is pretty unassuming, and the atmosphere inside matches. It’s a very relaxed decor, but there is a frenetic buzz. Those who like to converse softly in a dark corner booth might look elsewhere, but those looking for a hopping neighborhood hang out for foodies will enjoy. There is a small bar when you first walk in and approximately 15 tables. They don’t take reservations (like many of the restaurants in Portland), so you might be spending a little time at the bar. They have a decent selection of beers (including a couple nice Belgians) and a moderate wine list as well. At about 6:30 on a Friday night we got a table for two in 15 minutes. Not bad at all!
Amber and I each had a cup of the soup du jour, a carrot squash soup that was very good. We split the fried goat cheese (think fried mozzarella, only better) as well. It’s not on the menu on the website, but it wasn’t a special, either. Perhaps the website is a bit slow to update? Anyway, for dinner I selected the Casco Bay Scallops and Amber ordered a flank steak. My scallops were excellent. They were simple and not over-prepared like some restaurants tend to serve. I didn’t try Amber’s steak, but she seemed to enjoy it quite a bit. For dessert we split a homemade ice cream sandwich on spiced chocolate chip cookies. Very tasty, but a little too much after a big dinner. I’m glad we shared!
All this, including three drinks (one of which was a $10 glass of wine), was about $100, including tax and a tip. I’ve no doubt that a couple could eat here comfortably for $60, give or take, if they skipped the app and dessert and were careful with the wine menu. Overall we were very pleased with our dining experienc. It was just a touch too loud to catch up easily after my week away, but the food was excellent and the service friendly. Their website summarizes the concept behind the restaurant thusly:
The Front Room is a neighborhood gathering spot serving breakfast, lunch and dinner of “New American Comfort Food.” Taste the simple bold flavors of carefully prepared food using the best of local ingredients. Our philosophy is that the best ingredients, treated simply, will speak for themselves.
I quite agree. Letting the natural flavors of the food shine through, rather than burying everything in herbs, spices, and olive oil, was a very welcome change from the dining out I did in Louisville. If you get a chance to stop in, I definitely recommend the experience. Smith is also opening a new restaurant called The Grill Room within the next few weeks. If he executes a steak house with the aplomb of The Front Room, it’ll be a welcome addition to the Portland dining scene.